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User avatar
By Best
#5009
Anyone ever used these before?
I had to repair an old tap that I failed to stop it dripping badly. Obviously the seating is faulty, but reseating tool didn’t sort it.
Tried one of the kits that supply a new jumper part (washer part), plus a new seating.
The seating part is clearly wrong designed because it is made of hard plastic, with a tapered end that pushes into the old seating in the tap. :(
No consideration has been done about how the new seating it supposed to seal.
Still, it has nearly cured the dripping tap.
User avatar
By REDSAW
#5010
i did one for my neighbor a while back and the only one i have used.
if i remember correctly, i had to hammer the white seating into the seat neck.
it did work reasonably well though if you dont split it getting it in.

there is another option that i have just used on one of my own taps though depending on how bad the seating is.
replace the valve with a quarter turn, dry out the seating, cover a shower set washer with silicone-drop it on the seat, then put new valve in.
the silicone stops it spinning off the seat.
the washer digs in and fills the seat damage.
then the new valve squashes it down in place and because its quarter turn-it never moves the seating...

what you get with a standard tap valve is that the incoming water supply feeds around the valve from underneath it causing seat damage from faulty washers &/or bad casting. with a 1/4 turn it comes through the center of the valve first.

but dont tell anyone, repaired taps since i was 17 for a hotel chain by the dozen a week lol :lol:
User avatar
By Best
#5011
I actually considered doing something the same!
The tap however is an old 1010 works tap in excellent condition outside. It can’t be matched as quite modern design though despite being over 40 years old.
Before I fitted the new seating I wrapped some ptfe below the shoulder of it, in the hope it would seal it against the old seating. Not sure if it has pushed tight down against the old seating though.
A sensible design would have incorporated a rubber seal between the new and old seating, perhaps the spigot part being made of a softer rubber type material.
If I could manage a perfect solution, it would be useful to know for the future.
Whoever designed these repair kits obviously did not think it out fully.
User avatar
By REDSAW
#5012
Best wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 2:31 pm
I actually considered doing something the same!
The tap however is an old 1010 works tap in excellent condition outside. It can’t be matched as quite modern design though despite being over 40 years old.
Before I fitted the new seating I wrapped some ptfe below the shoulder of it, in the hope it would seal it against the old seating. Not sure if it has pushed tight down against the old seating though.
A sensible design would have incorporated a rubber seal between the new and old seating, perhaps the spigot part being made of a softer rubber type material.
If I could manage a perfect solution, it would be useful to know for the future.
Whoever designed these repair kits obviously did not think it out fully.
Agree! some serious hammering required to seat it.
a better solution would be for a smaller spiggot with grip flange. a bit like a male speed fit connectiom with 'o' rings and rubber seat.
User avatar
By Best
#5014
REDSAW wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 5:34 pm
Agree! some serious hammering required to seat it.
a better solution would be for a smaller spiggot with grip flange. a bit like a male speed fit connectiom with 'o' rings and rubber seat.
[/quote]

Yes, I had also thought a spigot with seals would be better.
But I guess the problem is the taps vary in their internal diameter.
To fit the new seating, I first pushed it hard down using a plier rubber coated handle. Then I screwed the works back in, still with its brass jumper, minus the old tap washer, and then tightened it hard down to force the new seating down
User avatar
By REDSAW
#5015
Best wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 9:38 pm
REDSAW wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 5:34 pm
Agree! some serious hammering required to seat it.
a better solution would be for a smaller spiggot with grip flange. a bit like a male speed fit connectiom with 'o' rings and rubber seat.
Yes, I had also thought a spigot with seals would be better.
But I guess the problem is the taps vary in their internal diameter.
To fit the new seating, I first pushed it hard down using a plier rubber coated handle. Then I screwed the works back in, still with its brass jumper, minus the old tap washer, and then tightened it hard down to force the new seating down
[/quote]

a lot of modern taps only have 8mm bore, so that could be started with as a base with sprung loaded s/s teeth that expand out with water pressure ;)
Turnpin, you found me something to use the 100's of domes for me yay :lol:
wonder the effect of sending in a couner sink with 12mm drill bit?
By TURNPIN
#5016
REDSAW wrote:
July 31st, 2018, 12:05 am
Best wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 9:38 pm
REDSAW wrote:
July 30th, 2018, 5:34 pm
Agree! some serious hammering required to seat it.
a better solution would be for a smaller spiggot with grip flange. a bit like a male speed fit connectiom with 'o' rings and rubber seat.
Yes, I had also thought a spigot with seals would be better.
But I guess the problem is the taps vary in their internal diameter.
To fit the new seating, I first pushed it hard down using a plier rubber coated handle. Then I screwed the works back in, still with its brass jumper, minus the old tap washer, and then tightened it hard down to force the new seating down
a lot of modern taps only have 8mm bore, so that could be started with as a base with sprung loaded s/s teeth that expand out with water pressure ;)
Turnpin, you found me something to use the 100's of domes for me yay :lol:
wonder the effect of sending in a couner sink with 12mm drill bit?
[/quote]

Won't know till you try....but got to be worth a go ...regards Turnpin :D
User avatar
By YorkshireDave
#5733
To convert a traditional NON-RISING multi-turn valve to 1/4 turn is very easy if you can measure properly ;)

Measure/note the following (pref using a vernier):
1 - Depth of the seat to the top of the tap body
2 - From the underside of the existing valve 'shoulder' (where the large sealing o-ring is) to the top of the spindle
3 - the length of the splines (to the plain part beneath)
4 - the number of splines (take an image END ON with your phone then zoom in. You only need to count half)
5 - the diameter of the splined part
6 - whether it has a shroud thread or not

Then simply go on the TapMagician website and buy carts to match your data. @RPM will know I'm nowt to do with TapMagician but at PRESENT it's the only source of so many diff carts. 8-)

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